Going Back to Sewing

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okbecca
okbecca Member Posts: 106
edited April 2016 in Living Without Reconstruction After a Mastectomy

Once upon a long time ago, I made all my own clothes. That was high school/college days.

I haven't even owned a sewing machine in 40 years. Until now. I've decided to start making my own clothes so that I can alter them to be more flattering for my new flat look.

At 80 pounds overweight (I'm working on that, was 100 pounds overweight 16 weeks ago.) I'm flat on top, fluffy down below. That's not exactly an off-the-rack girl. Add to that the concavity and tire-track scars, and my clothes will need a bit of fixing to look right.

I already know that I'm going to line the chest areas and add interfacing as well. Fabrics in the clothes I have now (a lot of knits) tend to drape over the scars, revealing that sexy tire-track for all the world to see. I think lining and interfacing should stop that.

Does anyone else sew? If you do, what adjustments do you make in patterns to flatter your flatness?

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  • glennie19
    glennie19 Member Posts: 6,398
    edited April 2016

    I don't really sew, but I'd love to hear about ideas

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  • WinningSoFar
    WinningSoFar Member Posts: 951
    edited April 2016

    I do sew, or rather I should say, I used to sew. When I was diagnosed in 2011, sewing went bye-bye. However, I love it. I haven't done this myself, but it would be my first idea. I'd create a new bodice sloper and then substitute my new paper pattern sloper for a commercial pattern bodice. Obviously that requires some knowledge of flat pattern drafting, but I would assume if you looked around in your local area, an eperienced seamstress could do one for you. It's not hard at all.

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  • okbecca
    okbecca Member Posts: 106
    edited April 2016

    I used a home-made muslin for fitting back when I sewed before. I could do a bodice sloper -- with measuring help from a girlfriend -- or I might try making a personal dress form using this technique. https://youtu.be/cok5VtSurEk. Of course, that would require a girlfriend(s) too. Too bad I'm cutting waaayyyy back on wine due to cancer. This has the makings of a hilarious evening.

    Any other ideas?

    I'm thinking I need to steer clear of certain knits and opt more for woven fabrics. What do you think of my under-structure idea with lining and interfacing? I'd rather build the form into the garment, if possible.

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  • floaton
    floaton Member Posts: 181
    edited April 2016

    okbecca, my closet has definitely shifted from more knits to more wovens. If I do a knit or a more clingy fabric, it's always a pattern or at the very least heathered to give it some interest beyond what's showing beneath. Pinterest has lots of ideas for fabric folding and ruching type styles to build up some structure up top. I bought a couple of tees like that from the loft outlet ages ago now and they're on their last legs so will be trying to make some this summer. I think lining would help, sometimes I find building up layers of clothing helps hide bumps and such, so that's generally the same idea. We bought a big bolt of muslin on sale at Joanns and it's been great for testing things out.
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  • cb123
    cb123 Member Posts: 320
    edited April 2016

    I sew. But I sew quilts and that's a lot of straight lines. I learned to sew clothes from my grandma and my mom but haven't made any for about 30 years.

    I see a lot of women (and I'm comfortable) wearing a compression garment as an undershirt to whatever blouse I'm wearing. Those women who get breast enhancement surgeries seem to have this style down. It looks like a tank top or camisole under your shirt. I don't have to wear a bra but still get support.

    There are so many styles suitable for flat chested women. Peasant blouse, gathered styles. Empire style bodice. Ruffles, ruching, halter tops and tank tops. I'm looking forward to some high spandex content fabrics and some spaghetti strap tank tops under whatever.

    Amazon Search (spandex tank top)

    Inner facing is great for a lot of things but you'll want something soft against your skin and something that holds up to washing.

    I found some good Pinterest ideas, Here's are the ones that I kept after a search for Mastectomy but you may want to search "mastectomy clothes".

    My Pinterest - mastectomy

    cb

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  • okbecca
    okbecca Member Posts: 106
    edited April 2016

    cb123, your pinterest page was great! I bookmarked a couple of the "how to" pages.

    floaton, I'm thinking of using a muslin lining, from the shoulder to just down to below the scars, and interfacing that on the side that would fall away from my chest. I wouldn't interface the fabric of the top itself unless it was needed as part of the design. I'm also thinking of adding slim shoulder pads in tops with set-in sleeves, to lift the fabric away from my chest. If I use woven fabric, do you think this would be enough to keep the scars hidden?

    I could also use graduated layers of muslin instead of interfacing, with all the layers hitting together at the area where the breasts used to be.

    I agree about prints, especially smallish geometric prints, confusing the eye and disguising things. What about the horizontal seaming of many designs today? Do you think that would do some of the same effect, or would it emphasize things?

    Should I avoid deep necklines? I'm thinking of the comments on the blog linked to in cb123's pinterest that deep necklines reveal way too much when you bend over.

    I'm not doing a big all-at-once closet thing. When I try something on for the first time after the bmx, I study it in the mirror and even take photos of it with my phone. Then, if I don't like what I see, I toss it. So far, all my knit tops, including those with turtle necks, have ended up in the trash. I threw away all my bras the weekend before my bmx. Decided I'd rather start new after. Even the keepers -- so far, just traditional, button-down shirts and tunics -- need altering to fit properly. I'm not going to bother. I'll just wear them until I get the right tops to replace, and then toss them, too. It's a new day and I'm not looking back.

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  • WinningSoFar
    WinningSoFar Member Posts: 951
    edited April 2016

    Here's a thought--maybe some vertical boning to add small bumps where you need them and enclose the boning between some lining/interlining layers.

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  • cb123
    cb123 Member Posts: 320
    edited April 2016

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  • Lunalin
    Lunalin Member Posts: 63
    edited April 2016

    Fantastic!!

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  • Bearhitch
    Bearhitch Member Posts: 40
    edited April 2016

    I have the same physique description as you - flat up top, not in the middle. I have found clothes to be quite difficult - if I were super slender I feel it would be much simpler. Anyway, I do not have any ideas or solutions.... just wanted you to know that you are not alone :) I have found that LuLaRoe has a shirt called the "Irma" that has a nice fit and looks nice that you could try too. Honestly I've been thinking of figuring out sewing so I could make my own swim suits or swim suit for pete's sake!!

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